How often should I water houseplants in winter?

Less often than in summer, usually about half as often, but always by checking the soil rather than the calendar. Most tropical foliage plants need water when the top 3 to 5 cm is dry, which might be every 10 to 21 days in winter. Succulents and cacti may need water only once a month or less.

Should I fertilize houseplants in winter?

Generally no. Most houseplants grow slowly or not at all in winter, so they can't use the nutrients and salts build up in the soil. Stop feeding in autumn and start again in spring when new growth appears. Plants under strong grow lights that keep growing are the exception.

Why do my houseplants die in winter?

The usual causes are overwatering as growth slows, low light from short days, dry air from heating, cold drafts near windows and doors, and pests such as spider mites that thrive in warm, dry rooms.

Should I move plants away from windows in winter?

Move them slightly back from very cold glass, especially on frosty nights, and never trap them between a closed curtain and the window. But keep them as close to the light as possible, because winter light is weak. A few centimetres from the glass is usually fine in double-glazed homes.

Is it OK to repot plants in winter?

It's best to wait until spring unless there's an emergency such as root rot, a broken pot or a plant that dries out within a day. Roots grow slowly in winter, so repotted plants sit in wet soil longer and are more prone to rot.

Do houseplants need a humidifier in winter?

Many tropical plants benefit, because heating often drops indoor humidity to 20 to 40 percent. Calatheas, ferns, prayer plants and alocasias show it first with crispy edges. Succulents and cacti don't need one.

Houseplant Winter Care: How to Keep Indoor Plants Alive

Houseplant winter care comes down to five changes: water less often (check the soil, don't follow a schedule), move plants closer to the light, stop feeding until spring, keep them away from cold glass, drafts and radiators, and raise humidity for tropical plants. Keep an eye out for spider mites, which love warm, dry winter rooms.

Winter is when most indoor plants are lost, and it's rarely because of cold alone. Shorter days mean less light, so plants slow down and use less water. If you keep watering the same way, the soil stays wet and roots rot. At the same time, heating dries the air, which crisps the edges of tropical leaves and invites pests. The good news is that a few small adjustments in autumn see most plants through to spring.

Winter care at a glance

Area	Summer habit	Winter change
Watering	Every 5–10 days for many plants	Often every 10–21 days; always check soil
Light	Some plants pulled back from windows	Move closer to windows; add grow lights
Feeding	Every 2–4 weeks	Stop until spring
Humidity	Usually fine	Often too low; humidifier, group plants
Temperature	Warm everywhere	Watch cold glass, drafts, radiators
Repotting	Spring/summer	Wait unless an emergency
Pests	Check monthly	Check every watering for spider mites

Watering less in winter

This is the most important change. Plants are growing slowly, days are short, and soil dries much more slowly in cool rooms. Overwatering is the top cause of winter losses.

Check before you water. Push a finger 3 to 5 cm into the soil, or use a wooden skewer for large pots.
Water thoroughly when you do water, until it drains, then empty saucers. Small sips leave the lower roots dry and the top wet.
Use room-temperature water. Cold water straight from the tap in a cold room can shock roots.
Water in the morning so the surface can dry during the day.

Plant type	Typical winter interval	Signal to water
Succulents, cacti, jade	Every 3–6 weeks	Soil fully dry, leaves slightly soft
Snake plant, ZZ plant	Every 4–6 weeks	Soil fully dry
Pothos, philodendron, monstera	Every 10–21 days	Top 5 cm dry
Peace lily, spider plant	Every 7–14 days	Top 2–3 cm dry, slight droop
Calathea, ferns, prayer plant	Every 7–12 days	Top 2 cm dry; don't let dry out
Fiddle leaf fig, rubber plant	Every 2–3 weeks	Top 5 cm dry

These are starting points only. The watering schedule tool lets you set a winter season and adjusts intervals for your pot and light. For snake plants specifically, see snake plant winter care.

Getting more light

Winter daylight can be a fraction of summer levels, especially in northern countries. Many plants that were happy two metres from a window in July need to be right next to it in December.

Move plants closer to the brightest windows, typically south-facing in the northern hemisphere.
Clean windows and wipe dust off leaves; both block a surprising amount of light.
Rotate pots weekly so growth stays even.
Use grow lights for plants in dim rooms. A full-spectrum LED on a timer for 10 to 12 hours makes a big difference. See grow lights for houseplants.
Pull back plants that were moved away from summer sun.

Check your spots again in winter with the plant light meter converter, since a spot that was bright in summer may now be in the medium or low range.

Temperature, drafts and heaters

Most tropical houseplants are comfortable at 16 to 24°C, and many cope with nights down to 12°C. The problems are sudden changes and extremes.

Cold glass: leaves touching a window on a frosty night can be damaged. Pull plants a few centimetres back, and never leave them between a closed curtain and the window at night.
Drafts: front doors, back doors and leaky windows send blasts of cold air that cause leaf drop, especially in figs.
Radiators and heaters: hot, dry air directly above a radiator scorches leaves and dries soil unevenly.
Unheated rooms: fine for succulents and cacti that like a cool rest, but too cold for tropicals if they drop below 10 to 12°C.

Humidity

Central heating can drop indoor humidity to 20 to 40%. Tropical plants such as calatheas, ferns, prayer plants, alocasias and orchids show it with crispy brown edges and curling leaves, and it encourages spider mites.

Ways to help, roughly from most to least effective: a humidifier; grouping plants together; moving humidity lovers to a bright bathroom or kitchen; and a pebble tray under the pot. Misting has a short-lived effect. See calathea care and bathroom plants for more.

Feeding and repotting

Stop feeding in autumn. Plants that aren't growing can't use fertiliser, and the salts build up and burn roots and leaf tips. Restart in spring when you see new leaves.

Avoid repotting in winter unless you have to. The exceptions:

Root rot (see root rot treatment)
A broken or cracked pot
A plant so root-bound it dries out within a day

Pests in winter

Warm, dry rooms are perfect for spider mites, and slow-growing plants are less able to fight off mealybugs and scale. When you water, look under leaves and in leaf joints. Fungus gnats often appear in winter too, because the soil stays wet longer. See houseplant pests and fungus gnats.

Holidays and time away

Winter trips are easier on plants than summer ones, because they dry out slowly. Water thoroughly the day before you leave, group plants together away from radiators, and turn the heating down rather than off so rooms don't drop below about 12°C. Most plants manage two weeks without water in winter. Self-watering pots and wicks help thirsty plants like ferns and peace lilies.

Normal winter changes (don't panic)

Slow or no new growth
One or two older leaves yellowing and dropping
Variegated plants looking slightly greener
Succulents and jades turning redder in a cool, bright window
Soil taking much longer to dry

Signs something is wrong

Sign	Likely winter cause	Fix
Many yellow leaves, wet soil	Overwatering	Water less, check roots
Crispy brown edges	Dry air, radiator	Humidifier, move from heat
Sudden leaf drop	Cold draft	Move away from doors/windows
Dark, water-soaked patches	Cold damage	Move to a warmer spot; trim damaged leaves
Leggy, pale growth	Low light	Closer to window, grow light
Fine webbing	Spider mites	Shower and treat

Autumn checklist to prepare for winter

Bring outdoor plants in before nights drop below 10–12°C; check them for pests first
Clean windows and dust leaves
Move plants closer to the light
Stop feeding
Set up a humidifier for tropicals
Move plants off cold windowsills and away from radiators
Switch to checking soil before every watering

Sources and further reading

Royal Horticultural Society: Houseplants in winter, for light, watering and temperature.
University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension: Houseplant care, for indoor humidity and light.
UC Statewide IPM Program: Houseplant problems, for overwatering and pests.