Philodendron Care: Light, Water, Soil and Yellow Leaves

Philodendron care indoors for heartleaf, Brasil, Birkin and climbing types: light, watering, soil, moss poles, propagation and fixing yellow leaves.

On this page
  1. Philodendron care at a glance
  2. Common types and how they differ
  3. Light
  4. Watering
  5. Soil and pots
  6. Humidity and temperature
  7. Feeding
  8. Moss poles and support
  9. Pruning and propagation
  10. Repotting
  11. Common philodendron problems
  12. Philodendron care checklist
  13. Sources and further reading

Philodendron care indoors is easy once you match three things: bright, indirect light (heartleaf types tolerate less), soil that drains well and is allowed to dry in the top 3 to 5 cm between waterings, and warm rooms above about 15°C. Feed monthly in spring and summer, give climbing types a moss pole, and most yellow-leaf problems disappear when you stop overwatering.

Philodendrons are one of the biggest groups of houseplants, from the trailing heartleaf (Philodendron hederaceum) on every bookshelf to upright hybrids like 'Birkin' and 'Congo Rojo', and collector plants like 'Pink Princess'. They're aroids, like monstera and pothos, and share the same basic needs. This guide covers the common types and the problems people ask about most.

Philodendron care at a glance

Need What works Avoid
Light Bright, indirect; medium OK for heartleaf Direct afternoon sun, very dark corners
Water When top 3–5 cm is dry Soggy soil, saucers left full
Soil Chunky aroid mix: compost, bark, perlite Dense compost alone
Temperature 18–27°C; above 15°C Cold drafts, below 12°C
Humidity 40–60%; more is a bonus Very dry air next to heaters
Feeding Balanced liquid feed monthly, spring–summer Feeding in winter
Support Moss pole or trellis for climbers Letting big climbers sprawl
Pets Toxic to cats and dogs (ASPCA) Leaves within reach

Common types and how they differ

Type Habit Light needs Notes
Heartleaf (P. hederaceum) Trailing or climbing Low to bright The easiest; great for shelves
'Brasil' Trailing Medium to bright Lime-striped heartleaf; stripes fade in low light
'Lemon Lime' Trailing Medium to bright Bright chartreuse leaves
Micans (velvet) Trailing Medium Velvety bronze leaves; likes humidity
'Birkin' Upright, self-heading Bright indirect White pinstripes; can revert to green
'Pink Princess' Climbing Bright indirect Pink variegation needs good light; see pink princess care
'Congo Rojo', 'Imperial Green' Upright Medium to bright Big, tough, forgiving
Split-leaf (Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum) Upright, large Bright Huge lobed leaves; needs space
P. erubescens, 'Red Emerald' Climbing Medium to bright Red stems; appreciates a pole

Light

In the wild, most philodendrons grow on the forest floor or climb tree trunks under the canopy, so they like plenty of filtered light. Indoors, aim for a spot near an east or north window, or a metre or two back from a south or west one. A sheer curtain softens strong sun.

Heartleaf philodendrons are among the best houseplants for medium and low light, which is why they turn up in offices. In dim spots they keep going but grow long gaps between leaves and smaller leaves. Variegated types need more light to keep their colour: 'Brasil' loses its stripes and 'Pink Princess' its pink in low light.

Check your spot with the plant light meter converter, or use the low light plant finder to compare philodendrons with other low-light options.

Watering

  1. Push a finger into the soil. When the top 3 to 5 cm is dry, water.
  2. Water slowly until it runs out of the drainage holes.
  3. Empty the saucer or cover pot after 15 minutes.
  4. Check again in five to seven days.

In spring and summer that's usually about once a week. In winter, every 10 to 14 days or longer. Drooping, soft leaves with dry soil mean thirst and recover within hours of watering. Yellow leaves with wet soil mean too much. The watering schedule tool gives you a starting interval for your pot and light, and overwatered plant signs explains how to tell the difference.

Soil and pots

Philodendrons want an airy mix that holds some moisture but drains fast. A good recipe is two parts peat-free houseplant compost, one part orchid bark and one part perlite, with a handful of worm castings if you like. See our houseplant soil mix guide or use the soil mix calculator. Always use pots with drainage holes.

Humidity and temperature

Average household humidity (40–60%) is fine for most philodendrons. Velvet-leaved types like micans and 'Gloriosum' prefer more. Keep plants above about 15°C and away from cold drafts and radiators. Growth slows a lot below 18°C.

Feeding

Feed every four weeks from spring to late summer with a balanced liquid houseplant fertiliser at the label strength, or every two weeks at half strength. Stop in autumn and winter. Pale new leaves in a well-lit plant often mean it's hungry. The fertilizer dilution calculator helps with measuring.

Moss poles and support

Climbing philodendrons produce bigger, more mature leaves when they can attach their aerial roots to something. A moss or coir pole works well:

  1. Push the pole into the pot at repotting time, close to the stem.
  2. Tie stems loosely to the pole with soft plant ties, with the aerial roots facing it.
  3. Keep the moss lightly damp so roots grow into it.
  4. Extend the pole as the plant grows.

Trailing types are happy hanging from a shelf or basket; trim them to keep them full.

Pruning and propagation

Trim leggy vines just above a node in spring or summer. New growth branches from below the cut. The cuttings root easily:

  1. Cut 10 to 15 cm of stem with at least one node and one or two leaves.
  2. Remove the lowest leaf so the node is bare.
  3. Root in water or moist perlite in a bright, warm spot.
  4. Roots appear in two to four weeks. Pot up when they're 2 to 5 cm long.

Upright types like 'Birkin' and 'Congo' are propagated from stem sections or by separating offsets at the base. See how to propagate houseplants.

Repotting

Repot every one to two years in spring, when roots circle the pot or poke out of the drainage holes. Go up only 2 to 5 cm in pot size. The repotting pot size calculator helps you choose, and how to repot a houseplant covers the steps.

Common philodendron problems

Problem Likely cause Fix
Yellow lower leaves, wet soil Overwatering Let top 5 cm dry; check roots
Yellow leaves, dry soil Underwatering Water thoroughly and more regularly
Small leaves, long gaps Low light Move to brighter, indirect light
Brown crispy edges Low humidity, underwatering Water more evenly; raise humidity
Brown spots with yellow halo Overwatering or leaf spot Water less; remove affected leaves
Pale new leaves Low nutrients or light Feed in growing season; more light
Variegation fading Low light Brighter spot; prune reverted stems
Droopy leaves Thirst or root rot Check soil and roots
Silvery streaks, black specks Thrips See houseplant pests
Black, mushy stems Root or stem rot See root rot treatment

Philodendron vs pothos: how to tell

Heartleaf philodendron Pothos
Leaf texture Thin, soft, matte to slightly glossy Thicker, waxy
Leaf shape Heart-shaped with a long, pointed tip Broader, slightly asymmetric
New leaves Emerge from a cataphyll (sheath) that dries brown Unfurl from the previous leaf
Aerial roots Thin, several per node Thick, one per node
Leaf stalk Round Grooved

Care is nearly identical. See the pothos care guide for its specifics.

Philodendron care checklist

  • Bright, indirect light (medium OK for heartleaf)
  • Water when top 3–5 cm is dry
  • Chunky, well-draining mix and a pot with holes
  • Feed monthly in spring and summer
  • Moss pole for climbers
  • Trim leggy vines in spring
  • Keep out of reach of pets

Sources and further reading

Frequently asked questions

How often should I water a philodendron?

Water when the top 3 to 5 cm of soil is dry. For most indoor philodendrons that is about once a week in spring and summer and every 10 to 14 days in winter. Water until it drains and empty the saucer. Check the soil rather than following a fixed schedule.

How much light does a philodendron need?

Bright, indirect light gives the best growth and the largest leaves. Heartleaf philodendrons tolerate medium and fairly low light, but they grow leggy with small leaves. Avoid strong direct afternoon sun, which scorches leaves.

Why are my philodendron leaves turning yellow?

One old lower leaf yellowing now and then is normal. Several yellow leaves at once usually means overwatering or poor drainage, especially if the soil stays wet. Other causes are low light, a lack of nutrients, or a sudden cold draft.

Is philodendron the same as pothos?

No, although they look alike. Heartleaf philodendron leaves are thinner, softer and more heart-shaped, and new leaves emerge from a sheath called a cataphyll. Pothos leaves are thicker and slightly waxy, and new leaves unfurl from the previous leaf. Their care is very similar.

Are philodendrons toxic to cats and dogs?

Yes. The ASPCA lists philodendrons as toxic to cats and dogs because of insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which irritate the mouth and stomach if chewed. Keep them out of reach of pets and children.

Do philodendrons need a moss pole?

Climbing types such as Philodendron hederaceum, 'Pink Princess', 'Brasil' and many large-leaf species grow bigger leaves when they can climb. Self-heading types such as 'Birkin', 'Congo' and Thaumatophyllum (split-leaf philodendron) grow upright without support.